Backcountry accommodations
From rustic to full-service: Skiing, snowshoeing and staying in Maine’s winter wilds can be an unforgettable, one-of-a-kind adventure
By Carey Kish
OVERLOOK YURT SITS ATOP A WOODED HILLOCK A MILE and a quarter by trail from the main lodge of The Birches Resort on Moosehead Lake just north of Rockwood. When the sun goes down and winter sky turns inky black, the deep cold settles in, and the coyotes and owls make their audible presence known. This little round shelter in the snow takes on a distinctly wild character at night that feels so much more remote and removed from civilization.
The Overlook Yurt at The Birches Resort is equipped with all the simple amenities for a comfy overnight stay in the winter woods. PHOTO: CAREY KISH
Hauling a sled with gear and provisions for an overnight stay, it takes a pleasant hour or so to ski or snowshoe to the yurt. Step through the door and there’s the woodstove, with a merry blaze kindled by resort staff in advance already producing welcome warmth. Bunk beds, futon, picnic table, gas lights, camp stove and a kitchen box of cooking gear complete the comfy outfit. With these simple amenities, the snug canvas haven feels like home in no time.
Forty miles of machine-tracked cross-country ski trails crisscross The Birches, a vast 10,000-acre swath of multiuse forestland ranging across the lower half of the unorganized Tomhegan Township. Snowshoers share the ski trails or can wander at will off-piste. With any number of loop possibilities, enthusiasts can venture far and wide across the backcountry terrain, which features two other yurts and a lot more wildlife than people.
The Birches Resort is just one of a number of places around Maine where, with proper planning and the right equipment, you can take an adventurous ski or snowshoe trek and enjoy a comfortable overnight stay (or longer) in the backcountry. Kick and glide along a groomed corduroy trail, follow animal tracks over the gleaming expanse of a frozen pond, feel the hush of the deep woods, and revel in the frosty air beneath perfect blue skies in the winter wilds.
Here’s a look at other options to consider, everything from trips not too far from the road to serious expeditions into the wilderness.
Camp Fern is one of three off-the-grid cabins on the western slope of Farwell Mountain at Carter’s XC Ski Center. PHOTO: CAREY KISH
Off-grid cabins at Carter’s XC Ski Center
Carter’s XC Ski Center in Bethel is home to three off-the-grid cabins on the western slope of Farwell Mountain. Each adorable, homey, fully equipped cabin is just a short trip from the trailhead, but the “out there” feeling is palpable. Cabin rentals include access to 55 kilometers of trails for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and fat tire biking on 200 acres. Trails on the mountainside lead to an overlook with a grand view of the White Mountains and below, through stately white pines and old cow pastures, along the wide Androscoggin River.
Cabins and yurts at Hidden Valley Nature Center
Hidden Valley Nature Center is 1,000 acres of wooded wonderland tucked away in the hills of Jefferson. More than 25 miles of trails for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and fat tire biking wind through the property and connect a host of natural features, such as an amazing bog, the undeveloped shoreline of Little Dyer Pond, craggy ridges of pine and oak, and Haybale and Kidney ponds. Three frame cabins, a little log cabin and a yurt provide rustic accommodations; all are accessible by packed trails. A beautiful new welcome center greets visitors this winter.
Eco-lodges at Maine Huts and Trails
Maine Huts and Trails features three remote eco-lodges situated along an 80-mile system of multiuse trails, all in the shadow of the lofty peaks of the Bigelow Range between the Carrabassett River valley and Flagstaff Lake. Although off the grid, the facilities feature hot showers and heated bunkrooms powered by green energy sources. Thursday through Sunday, the huts are full-service and provide three hot and delicious meals; Monday through Wednesday, the huts are self-service with guest access to kitchen facilities.
Maine Huts and Trails has three remote eco-lodges along its 80-mile multiuse trail system in the shadow of the lofty Bigelow Range. Shown here is the Stratton Brook Hut. COURTESY PHOTO
Appalachian Mountain Club’s Little Lyford and Gorman Chairback Lodges
Two of the three Appalachian Mountain Club’s Maine Wilderness Lodges are off the grid and accessible only by human-powered means amid 130,000 protected acres in the heart of the 100-Mile Wilderness. The Little Lyford and Gorman Chairback locations both offer cozy log cabins, a central lodge, three hearty meals per day, hot showers and a wood-fired sauna. Miles of packed and tracked trails for skiing and snowshoeing connect the lodges with Long Pond, the West Branch of the Pleasant River and the slate canyons of Gulf Hagas.
Haskell Hut and Big Spring Hut at Katahdin Woods and Waters
Sandwiched mostly between the unfettered East Branch of the Penobscot River and the high peaks of Baxter State Park, Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument encompasses 87,500 acres of natural beauty and rich history. The monument’s northern end is accessible in winter, and that’s where outdoor adventurers will find a network of packed trails (a few miles are tracked), two remote and rudimentary cabins—Haskell Hut and Big Spring Hut—and an enormous measure of spectacular scenery and sublime solitude.
Climbing to the summit of mile-high Katahdin in Baxter State Park is the ultimate winter adventure. Saddle Trail, Baxter State Park. PHOTO: CAREY KISH
Bunkhouses and cabins at Baxter State Park
A journey into the 210,000-acre expanse of Baxter State Park may be the ultimate Maine winter adventure and no doubt its most serious and strenuous. Bunkhouses at seven locations and cabins at two others provide primitive accommodations; these are accessible only by long treks on skis or snowshoes with sleds or backpacks in tow, often under harsh conditions. The reward for trekkers hardy enough to make the effort, however, is to experience some of the most incredible winter wilderness anywhere in the northeastern United States.
Reservations are required for these destinations. Check with the land and facility managers well in advance of your intended trip for advice on preparing, packing and traveling, trail maps, trail and weather conditions, parking and such. REI, Appalachian Mountain Club, Maine Huts and Trails, and Baxter State Park all have good winter equipment checklists. Find great sled outfits and sled making instructions at SkiPulk.com. Know what to expect, plan accordingly, and be mindful out on the trail. A safe and enjoyable winter trip is no accident. Enjoy!
Resources for when you go
AMC Maine Wilderness Lodges
outdoors.org/destinations/maine
603-466-2727
Baxter State Park
baxterstatepark.org
207-723-5140
The Birches Resort
birches.com
800-825-9453
Carter’s XC Ski Center
cartersxcski.com
207-824-3880
Hidden Valley Nature Center
midcoastconservancy.org/hvnc
207-389-5150
Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument
nps.gov/kaww
207-456-6001
Maine Huts and Trails
mainehuts.org
207-265-2400
On the cover: Judi steps out of a cabin in the 100-Mile Wilderness to fresh falling snow.