Acadia National Park: A wonderland in wintertime
Cross-country skiing on the historic carriage roads of Acadia National Park is a bucket list adventure. More than 20 miles of carriage roads are groomed and tracked for public enjoyment by volunteers.
This article was originally published December 2020 and was last updated November 2023.
Article and photos by Carey Kish
The term “Winter Wonderland” may be a somewhat overused descriptor these days, but it seems apt when it comes to Acadia National Park. The glorious landscape of Mount Desert Island is wide open for hiking, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing on 130 miles of trails and 45 miles of carriage roads. And the big bonus? Not a lot of people.
Frost tinges the jack pines along the trail high on the north ridge of Champlain Mountain, which offers wonderful views of Frenchman Bay and the Schoodic Peninsula beyond.
Somewhere around 3 million people visit Acadia each year to enjoy the mountain and ocean splendor of Maine’s only national park, the eighth-most visited in the United States. The lion’s share of Acadia’s visitors come to the park in the spring, summer and fall, mostly from July through October.
The cold, snowy months are a much different story, when an estimated 50,000 people come to Acadia in winter, just 2% of the annual visitation. Clearly, to have this beautiful park pretty much to yourself, winter is the time to roam wild and free as if you owned the place (which as American citizens, we do).
While the 27-mile Park Loop Road is closed in winter (except for two short stretches), plenty of other access points along the public roads slice through park land, including Routes 3, 198 and 233 on the east side of the island and Routes 102 and 102A on the west side. Many of the trailhead parking lots are plowed, and a few even have toilets open for use.
The Ocean Drive section of the Park Loop Road from Schooner Head Road to Otter Cliffs Road, which includes Sand Beach and Thunder Hole, is plowed and open to vehicles. This makes for easy access to Great Head, the Bowl and Gorham Mountain for starters, never mind the fabulous Ocean Path. The park also maintains the Park Loop Road from Seal Harbor (via Jordan Pond Road) to Jordan Pond, which allows access to Pemetic and Penobscot mountains and the Bubbles.
Snowshoeing enthusiasts can enjoy plenty of natural beauty and solitude on Acadia’s trails, like this one on Beech Mountain overlooking lovely Long Pond.
With 26 named peaks and eight mountains exceeding 1,000 feet in elevation, there’s plenty more to do, of course. A traverse of the long open ridgeline of Cadillac Mountain is a classic winter hike. Dorr Mountain from Sieur de Monts Spring is a favorite, as is Bald Peak and Parkman Mountain from the Hadlock Ponds area.
On the other side of Somes Sound, Acadia and St. Sauveur mountains are easy pickings; the same for Beech Mountain and Beech Cliff. Drive to the south end of Long Pond to tackle the steeps to Mansell Peak and Bernard Mountain. And along the coast, the Wonderland and Ship Harbor trails are just as much fun in winter as summer.
Many miles of Acadia’s foot trails, like this one on the south ridge of Cadillac Mountain, are accessible to winter hikers
All the great hiking and walking aside, the real bucket list Acadia winter adventure is cross-country skiing on the carriage roads, the enduring gift of the beloved philanthropist John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Volunteers from the Acadia Winter Trails Association machine groom and track a series of ski loops – some 25 miles in all – and whenever Mother Nature dumps more than a few inches of snow, the groomers are out there soon after doing their wonderful thing.
Probably the most popular jumping off point for carriage road skiers is the parking lot on Route 233 at the north end of Eagle Lake, just a short drive west of Bar Harbor. From here you can ski north on the Witch Hole Loop, a scenic 6.5-mile circuit that takes in Paradise Hill and views of Frenchman Bay. You can also ski the 6-mile Aunt Betty Loop, which heads south along Eagle Lake and offers glimpses of Cadillac Mountain.
The 4-mile Hadlock Loop and the 5-mile Amphitheater Loop are accessed from Route 3/198 at either Parkman Mountain trailhead or Brown Mountain Gatehouse. For a superb challenge, try the 17-mile Around-the-Mountain Loop, which circumnavigates Sargent Mountain and a jumble of five other peaks.
Carriage road users need to follow a few simple but important rules of etiquette. One edge of the groomed trail is tracked for traditional skiers, while the other edge is reserved for snowshoeing enthusiasts, booted hikers and dogs. Skate skiers get the middle of the corduroy swath, as do traditional skiers who prefer not to stay in the track.
Lodging, dining and entertainment opportunities abound all over Mount Desert Island in wintertime, so make a plan to make the trek to Acadia to see more of this special place in the relative quiet of the snowy season.
Beautifully crafted signposts guide skiers, snowshoers and hikers along Acadia’s historic carriage roads, the gift of philanthropist John D. Rockefeller, Jr.
Plan your Acadia winter adventure
Acadia National Park
Winter activities guide
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/winter.htm
Acadia Winter Trails Association, Friends of Acadia Facebook page
Grooming status of carriage roads
facebook.com/FriendsofAcadia
Bar Harbor Chamber of Commerce, Southwest Harbor-Tremont Chamber of Commerce
Lodging, dining, entertainment options
visitbarharbor.com
Cadillac Mountain Sports
Outdoor gear and advice
cadillacsports.com
Tips for a safe, enjoyable winter’s day outdoors
Dress in layers (from wicking layer to insulating layers to wind shell) so you can adjust clothing to your activity level and changing temperatures during the day.
Pack a spare hat and gloves, a second wicking layer and a warm insulated jacket for wearing when stopped for breaks.
Wear good boots, consider gaiters to keep the snow out, and carry a spare pair of socks.
Use hand and toe warmers on really cold days.
Wear appropriate foot gear (micro-spikes, crampons) for conditions and use trekking poles for good balance in the snow.
Carry plenty of water (use insulated water bottle covers) and drink regularly through the day to stay well hydrated.
Bring a headlamp and spare batteries, as winter days are short.
Carry and eat plenty of energy foods, salty snacks and lunch to keep your body fueled.
Pack a thermos of hot tea, cocoa, soup or coffee to enjoy on the trail.
Leave an itinerary with someone responsible and, while out on the trail, know the weather forecast, keep an eye on the weather (and the time) during the day, set a turnaround time and stick to it.
Be self-reliant on the trail, stay together as a group and frequently check to see that everyone is in good shape.
Pack the rest of the “10 Essentials” (that aren’t already mentioned above), like a map and compass, small first aid kit, lighter or other firestarter, knife or multi-tool and other repair items as appropriate, and emergency shelter (garbage bag or bivouac sack and sit pad).
Wintertime on Acadia’s trails is good fun and will surely bring a big smile to your face!
