Off the beaten path: Norway, Paris and Oxford, Maine
Cafe Nomad is known for its fresh baked goods and warm atmosphere on Main Street, Norway. PHOTO: EMILY DELAMATER.
Cafe Nomad, located on Main Street in Norway, Maine. PHOTO: EMILY DELAMATER.
By Saisie Moore
BETWEEN CHASING SUMMER THRILLS along the coast and winter snow in the mountains, it’s all too easy to overlook the breathtaking landscapes and warm communities in the rural heart of Maine. One such gem is the Oxford Hills region, a modest drive along Route 26 from Portland, yet far from the traffic and trappings of city life. The region is home to crystal-blue lakes, large land preserves for outdoor recreation, and charming Main Street towns bursting with life. Where else could you drive between Norway, Poland and Paris in an afternoon? It’s time to explore Maine’s western foothills.
Norway, Maine
Once the snowshoe-making capital of America, Norway is a winter destination by design. As you pull onto charming Main Street in the downtown area, you see streets lined with two-hundred year-old historic buildings and punctuated by the spire of the Norway Opera House. Built in 1887, the statuesque striking red brick building at the heart of the town houses several shops; fundraisers plan to establish a community commerce and performance space here. Old and new intermingle with ease throughout Norway’s neighborhoods: Widdershins Antiques’ traditional storefront, filled with collectibles and curiosities, sits opposite the clean lines of The Woods Maine Shop, in which you’ll find modern lifestyle merch adorned with hand-drawn rustic designs. In much the same way, urban streets blend into nature where Main Street leads you to the shores of Pennesseewassee Lake.
Exploration demands sustenance— look no further than Cafe Nomad on the corner of Main Street and Pikes Hill. A welcoming retreat from the winter weather, thanks to its wide hardwood floorboards and friendly staff. Nomad’s food is all homemade and includes baked goods made on- site each morning. You can’t go wrong with the signature breakfast sandwich or bagel, fortified by a steaming cup from Carrabassett Coffee Company. Not only does Cafe Nomad source their ingredients locally, they also donate their food scraps to feed local pigs and chickens. Is this bakery-to-barnyard dining?
Cross the street from Cafe Nomad, and you’ll find yourself at Fare Share Food Co-op, a natural foods store stocked with fresh locally-sourced produce, bulk foods, groceries, supplements, wine, beer, and gifts. Grab ingredients for a meal later, and don’t forget snacks for your busy day exploring the western foothills.
Housed in an old Victorian on Main Street, Smokin’ Dave’s Backyard BBQ & Grill will satisfy the meat lovers in the crowd. PHOTO: DAVID NELSON.
Don’t fill up yet, because there’s plenty to enjoy at Taste of Eden Vegan Café further along Main Street. Owners Michael and Sonya Tardif boast “the most healthy whole foods in Greater Oxford Hills” in a relaxed home kitchen environment where the emphasis is on locally sourced produce. The menu encompasses all the classic favorites, like burgers, pizza, soups, and salads, with a vegan twist and an affordable price tag. Try comfort classics like the pot pie along with a mug of herbal tea and enjoy the sensation of indulgence without overeating or overspending.
If there’s a mutiny among the meat-eaters, never fear: Smokin' Dave’s Backyard BBQ & Grill is just next door. Another wife-husband team helm this local favorite, serving homemade family-style barbecue and baked goods. “The smokers will be going all winter,” says the eponymous Dave Nelson. Dive in and try the Moose Eggs—spicy smoked ground sausage stuffed with cream cheese and diced fresh jalapeños—or rise to Dave’s challenge and try the Super Sampler. “It does what it says,” says Nelson in true matter-of-fact Mainer fashion. You’ll get a Moink ball (Ground Certified Angus Beef® and pork meatballs, wrapped in bacon, smoked and sauced), Moose Egg, wing, riblet, and pulled pork, chicken and brisket, and one side, all for less than $14.
No matter whether you opt for vegan or barbecue, consider reuniting over a refreshing pint at Norway Brewing across the street. Featuring 10 beers on tap, this family-run microbrewery is a popular watering hole among visitors and locals. Flagship brews include Lust for Gold IPA and seasonally rotating options that can be enjoyed in the taproom or the charming (and pet- friendly) beer garden. There’s the option to enjoy brunch or dinner or simply imbibe a few of the playfully named beers, like the Munich Man Bun (a dark Schwarzbier lager) or the Mr. Grumpypants (an oatmeal stout).
Crafters and creatives will be happy to discover Fiber & Vine, located inside the historic opera house. Owner and Western Maine local (and skilled hand knitting designer) Kimberly Hamlin knows how to fire up your imagination with her vast array of yarns, from alpaca to mohair to silks, and crafting supplies, all displayed in a sleek modern interior. The real secret ingredient? Fiber & Vine also stocks an array of interesting wines to add some spark to your knitting circle. “Customers come in and see the wine and craft materials together and declare ‘This is the perfect store!’” says Hamlin. “And I say, ‘I agree!,’” she laughs.
Co-owned with Scott Burke of Cafe Nomad, Fiber & Vine was envisioned as a place of community gathering and creativity. The knowledgeable staff can help you with your projects and inspire you with new yarns, patterns or wine choices. “The store is an interactive experience,” Hamlin says. “I love sharing what I know and problem-solving with customers.” Of the wine selection, she says, “It’s like being a librarian. You have to curate and shape the selection by season, by price. I like to choose wines you won’t see in every Hannaford in New England.”
In a lower-level studio beneath the store, Hamlin and fellow teachers have offered the Folk Art class series. “Folk art is learning from one another, using only what you have and your own tools,” Hamlin says. Past classes included wood carving, printmaking and felting, and Hamlin hopes to offer wreath-making this winter.
Western Foothills Land Trust manages a collection of spectacular preserves with access to groomed snow trails and sculptures by Bernard Langlais. Above: Nordic skiing at Roberts Farm Preserve. PHOTOS: ANDY GAGNE.
If your passions are more adrenaline-fueled in nature, let Green Machine inspire your next adventure. The full-service bike and ski shop can be found beneath the embossed gold sign for L.M. Longley & Sons, a testament to its past life as a historic family hardware store. Green Machine was launched by John and Angela Harvey in 2016 after, in Maine rom-com fashion, the couple met working in the bike & ski department of L.L.Bean. You’ll find everything from mountain bikes to road bikes, electric bikes to cruiser bikes, fat bikes and kids bikes. The well-stocked winter collection, from warm layers to full downhill and cross-country skiing gear, offers everything you need to embrace the cold months.
At Green Machine, you might find the fat bike or XC skis you need to explore the Oxford Hills’ many miles of groomed trails, which wind through local preserves, farmland and forest lands owned by the Western Foothills Land Trust. With a management area of over 7,000 acres, the Trust “protects farmlands, wetlands, forestlands, natural resources and open spaces in the foothills of the Oxford Hills region.” Several parcels of land surround Pennesseewassee Lake, among them Roberts Farm Preserve on the southern tip. More than 200 acres of woodland and rolling pastures dotted with stone walls, orchards, and groves— all remnants of its agricultural past as a dairy farm—can be explored via 7+ miles of mixed-use trails. The rolling landscape and picture-perfect views make this a winning destination for snowshoeing, skiing, biking or sledding. This winter, the preserve will host a calendar of winter events, including multiple XC ski clinics and even skijor open days when you can bring your four- legged friend and cruise the trails in tandem. There’s something for the whole family the weekend of February 19-21, 2022 when Robert’s Farm Preserve hosts snowshoeing days, fat bike races and a family ski treasure hunt. In a gesture of generosity, the Preserve’s sweet warming hut also doubles as a rental storage unit, where on weekends you can borrow Nordic skis and snowshoes free of charge. Now there’s some trail magic!
Across the lake, Shepard’s Farm Preserve sits high on Crockett’s Ridge, overlooking the lake and the Paris hills beyond. Its trail system caters to bikers and extends out to the expansive Witt Swamp wetland preserve, where you can stretch your legs over many miles. Shepard’s Farm provides a precious opportunity to observe nature—although there’s a different kind of creature hidden away in these woods. Both Roberts and Shepard’s Preserve are part of The Langlais Art Trail. The project, which honors the life and work of the famed Maine artist and sculptor Bernard Langlais, places his large and lively sculptures among 40 communities across Maine. On a snowy walk, you might just stumble across enormous birds and figures sculpted from wood and metal.
The Heads by Maine sculptor Bernard Langlais at Shepard’s Farm Preserve. COURTESY PHOTO.
Paris and Oxford, Maine
Luchador Tacos offer a taste of LA sunshine on even the coldest day in South Paris. PHOTO: NICK MOODY.
Only in Maine can you start your car and drive from Norway to Paris in a matter of minutes. Stretching along Route 26 north, the South Paris neighborhood is a short jaunt from Norway proper. There you’ll find Luchador Tacos—although you might just believe you’ve taken a detour via the West Coast. Situated in an unassuming strip mall, Luchador is a burst of LA color in Western Maine. Launched in 2017 by Katherine Mitchell, whose Mexican heritage and childhood in East Los Angeles inspired the authentic flavors that have won her accolades from the Food Network, Luchador attracts a busy lunchtime crowd. In midwinter, the splash of color from the Los Angelino angel wings mural, as well as the cityscape mural, multicolored chairs and umbrellas, and luchador wrestler mascot, are all uplifting sights. Luchador’s offerings include tacos (naturally), burritos, bowls, and Mitchell’s signature nachos, topped with housemade roasted green tomatillo salsa and carne asada marinated in citrus and spices. Many dishes are served in the fast-casual style popularized by chains like Chipotle, where you select your own combinations.
On Route 26 in West Paris, Hungry Hollow Country Store is an old-fashioned country store with New England charm by the bucketload. Step back in time as you take in the seasoned wooden floorboards and shelves stacked deep with canned vegetables, local honey and preserves—and an entire room dedicated to freshly baked goods. Everything is made in small batches by the proprietor, Shirley, and the store is staffed by friendly locals with insider tips on where to visit next.
For no-nonsense comfort food and baked goods that will put some warmth between you and winter, don’t miss out on Rising Sun Cafe and Bakery in South Paris for breakfast or lunch. Known for its Lemon Raspberry Muffins, there are also weekly specials and even a monthly rotating whoopie pie flavor for a true taste of Maine.
If your appetite is leaning more toward the Continent, don’t forget to make a reservation at Maurice Restaurant on Main Street, South Paris. While many eateries in the area cater to the casual occasion, Maurice is there for when you want to get a little dressed up and indulge in a bottle or two from the wine cellar. Choose from the French collection, like the 602 Châteauneuf du Pape, and pair it with a decadent three-course meal, as if you were in real Paris for one night only. After all, where else in Maine can you enjoy escargots?
The green and gold X Vault Pub & Provisions, located on the first floor of the brick Crossway Building at 10 Market Square attracts a hip, young crowd eager to enjoy cocktails and beer in this spacious gastropub. The food menu is eclectic, running from Asian-fusion poké bowls and kimchi tacos to pub favorites like hot wings and burgers. Visitors comment on the skilled and personable bartenders, who will whip you up winter warmers like Penicillin (Johnny Walker Black, ginger, honey, lemon, single malt scotch floater) and Spice of Life (Rum Cooperative, Ancho Reyes, apple cider, lime, coconut, Thai chili peppers).
Riverside Lodge & Sauna in South Paris offers a restaurant with scratch-made pastas, soups, pizza and more to warm your insides, while private saunas and massage services provide a restorative treat for the winter-weary traveler. COURTESY PHOTO.
After the past year, you deserve a true getaway. Lucky for you, Riverside Lodge & Sauna in South Paris is a one-stop-shop for homemade baked goods, wood-fired saunas and massage therapy. For $30 per hour, you can settle into a private cedar- clad sauna and melt the winter chill from your bones. Indulge yourself further and book a synergistic massage with warm towels, hot rocks and aromatherapy. “You can book a private sauna followed by a couples massage if you’re coming with your significant other,” says owner Jennifer McMahon. Even better? McMahon, a former baker, will be putting her skills to use this winter, creating a menu of homemade favorites like bagels, croissants and soups. These can all be enjoyed in the inviting dining area complete with bar. Just imagine settling in with that post-sauna glow to feast on homemade goodies and perhaps a drink or two. There’s surely no sweeter escape from the biting cold.
One of the most respected breweries in Maine, thanks to its European-style farmhouse ales and experimental sours, Oxbow already had a taproom in Portland and a rambling farmhouse location in Newcastle when it launched the Oxbow Beer Garden in spring 2019. Housed in a renovated 200-year-old barn on Main Street in Oxford and featuring a rustic interior that perfectly accompanies its signature Farmhouse Ale, the location also includes the beloved former Carter’s XC Ski trail system. “We are very excited to reopen the trails again this winter,” says Operations Director Josh Fernands. “And will once again be partnering with our friends at the Gear Hub to provide equipment rentals.” After working up an appetite on groomed trails, a draft pour and a mouth-watering pizza made from Oxbow’s proprietary dark- crusted sourdough base topped with local ingredients will really hit the spot. Why not carb load with a cheesy potato pizza and a side of crisp Caesar salad washed down with a Dusky dark lager and a bowl of cinnamon-dusted donuts? It’s winter and you need some insulation after all! Make a reservation to sit inside in the cozy split-level farmhouse or brave the outdoors. “We have added more fire pits and A-frames to our outside space and are looking forward to taking full advantage of our magical outdoor spot,” Fernands says. Bundled up with a beer in hand, you can enjoy watching fellow skiers slip-sliding through the pasture on a snowy pilgrimage toward the pub.
Whether your winter ambitions involve icy outdoor adventures or hunkering down somewhere cozy with a warm or cold drink, the rolling Oxford Hills are calling.
Gallery: Oxbow Beer Garden in Oxford includes six miles of groomed trails for winter enthusiasts. Refuel with a hearty menu of sourdough crust pizza and calzones. Of course, beer is Oxbow’s signature. Sip yours around a warming fire pit. PHOTOS: CAIT BOURGAULT.
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