The Mid-Midcoast: Wiscasset, Damariscotta and in between
A picturesque region from Woolwich to Nobleboro
Damariscotta, Maine as seen from the Damariscotta River
By Saisie Moore
All photos courtesy unless otherwise noted
WHEN SUMMER HITS and the weekend approaches, it’s all too easy to be gripped with destination fever. But if you set your sights too firmly on one spot, you’re apt to overlook hidden gems along the way. Why not spend some sun-soaked hours exploring off Route 1 north of Bath, where winding roads, rivers and coves lead to picture-perfect seascapes and classic New England small towns? Near the watershed of the Kennebec, Sheepscot and Damariscotta rivers as they run into the Gulf of Maine, you’ll find exceptional people creating exceptional food, art and community in Wiscasset, Alna, Newcastle, Damariscotta and in between.
Once you’ve crossed the Carlton Bridge with Bath in your rear-view mirror, you’ll be entering the area of Midcoast Maine that appears like a jumble of jagged shapes on a map. But the geography looks beautiful from the ground, as you travel eastward along estuarine zones and across rivers. The first unmissable stop is just a short stretch up Route 1, signaled by a striking timber frame that marks the entrance to Shelter Institute. The legendary woodworking and building school also houses a tool and book shop that can make even the most DIY-averse shopper swoon. The warm wooden interior contains every manner of hand tool and a rich collection of how-to books, too. From axes to planes, a wonderful magic hangs over the store. Prepare to be overcome with a sudden desire to add a wood-handled whittling knife or Japanese garden trowel to your toolbox.
Red’s Eats. PHOTO: SCOTT B. SMITH IMAGERY
Wiscasset
A few miles later, the historic town of Wiscasset announces itself as the “Prettiest Town in Maine”—and you might soon agree. Bath Road, which bisects the town, can get heavily congested in summer. Find a parking spot and wait out the traffic jams as you stroll down to Treats. The longstanding cafe market, covered in wisteria and striped awnings, is at first a feast for the eyes alone—but just wait until you taste one of Treats’ bakery items. A daily rotating selection of cakes, cookies and scones are butter-rich bites of heaven, and there’s a further selection of soups, sandwiches, wines, candies and artisan products filling the rustic space. One visit and you’ll never be able to pass through Wiscasset again without stopping in. Just down the street, there’s plenty to browse through and buy at Birch Home & Gifts, full of coast-inspired home goods. Rock Paper Scissors next door will tempt you with its extensive array of paper goods, pens and gifts. Moulinette completes this trio of retail treasures, with a sign proclaiming that there are “Joyful Things” within, including beauty and skincare items, children’s and baby wear, and plant-based, non-toxic home-cleaning products you won’t want to hide under the sink.
There’s no missing Wiscasset’s star players: the lobster shacks that bookend the bridge leading out of town. Red's Eats is a much-lauded and heavily patronized hub of activity during the summer months. Expect to see tourists lining the sidewalk for a bite of Red’s famous lobster roll. Across the street, rival Sprague's Lobster drums up its own lively business. Rather than choose between them, simply get a lobster roll from each and be your own judge.
Why be a day-tripper when you can stay the night in comfort at Marston House? The classic white carriage house has a French antiques and textiles store on the first floor and a quaint two-room bed-and-breakfast upstairs, where you can sleep on four-poster beds and explore the secret garden below. Wander down the waterfront to Water Street Kitchen & Bar, where behind the huge sliding bar door facade, you’ll dine on exceptionally fresh and local foods in classic Maine surroundings.
Alna
SeaLyon Farm
When you wake up, escape the crowds by heading inland to the small town of Alna. The Alna Store comes as something of a surprise among the quiet roads and woods. Serving breakfast, “brunchy lunch,” and dinner, the restaurant-market describes itself as an “oasis of kindness and delicacy,” where you can feast on artfully prepared foods made of ingredients supplied by Maine’s farmers and fishermen. Walk off that indulgence on a nearby trail network surrounding the Sheepscot River, one of the last remaining habitats for Atlantic salmon. Options include Stetser Preserve, Hidden Valley Nature Center, Bass Falls Preserve or Trout Brook Preserve.
For a special experience, follow the breeze to SeaLyon Farm in Alna, where fields of pick-your-own lavender perfume the summer air. Each Saturday in July, owners Don and Marcia Lyon collaborate with the Wiscasset, Waterville & Farmington Railway to offer guests the stuff of true summer memory-making on the Lavender Pickin’ Train. Board the historic steam-powered train car in Sheepscot and wind through woodland and fields to the Top of Mountain station. From there, Don and his team will transport you via tractor and horse-drawn carriage to the rolling rows of fragrant lavender, complete with a cookout, refreshments, and a farm gift shop to entertain you until the return train puffs its way back down Sheepscot Valley. “The idea came up around the kitchen table,” says train master Ed Lecuyer. “And it somehow makes sense. There’s something everyone can enjoy, from mechanical enthusiasts to nature lovers. It creates a real family favorite.”
Newcastle & Damariscotta
Oxbow Brewing. PHOTO: CAIT BOURGAULT PHOTOGRAPHY
Leaving Alna, make for the twin towns of Newcastle and Damariscotta, divided by a bridge over the Damariscotta River. On the western side, outside of town, Newcastle is home to the farmhouse outpost of Oxbow Brewing (which also has locations in Portland and Oxford). This is where the brewery began, and the founders recently opened a three-bedroom guesthouse among 18 acres of trails, orchards, and tidal waters—and, perhaps most enticingly, the taproom. If you feel compelled to leave these luxe digs, you can venture out to discover why this region is considered the oyster capital of New England. The Damariscotta River, an Abenaki word roughly transplanting to “place of many fish,” has a uniquely high tidal flow that nurtures excellent growing conditions for oyster beds. Glidden Point Oyster Farms gives tours of their riverside operations, finishing with a shuck-your-own oyster experience on the farm’s patio.
Still hungry? Wind your way along River Road back into Newcastle, where you can keep on shuckin’ at the Shuck Station Raw Bar, a fun and casual place for a platter of oysters on ice and a crisp pour at happy hour. The patio is the perfect spot to whet your appetite before a hearty meal at the stately, brick-clad Newcastle Publick House. Inside the bright, muralled main dining room, you can enjoy an impressive beer selection and a surprising wealth of vegan options. Upstairs in the Oysterhead Lounge, you’ll find live music and karaoke. Before you leave Newcastle, don’t miss The Beach Plum Company, a jewel box of a store, with a remarkable range of treasures from near and far for the home, garden, outdoors—and little ones, too.
Once over the bridge into Damariscotta proper, you’re spoiled for choice for places to go. It might be time to take a break from eating, so why not feed your mind instead by digging through the stacks at Sherman’s Maine Coast Bookshop or Skidompha Secondhand Book Shop, whose sales benefit the town’s award-winning public library. Still thinking about food? Ann's Book Bistro on Back Meadow Road offers Spanish cuisine amid a collection of almost 2,000 books. From here, you’re only a short distance from the Whaleback Shell Midden deposit, a site of Native American significance indicating a Wabanaki gathering place that pre-dated European colonization. It’s a short walk to the riverbank, where a swinging bench affords a good view of the midden. Like much of the public lands in the area, the midden is managed by Coastal Rivers Conservation Trust. During the summer, the organization offers family programming for budding naturalists and birdwatchers. After your walk, indulge at Round Top Ice Cream located just down the street. The classic creamery has been making old-fashioned scoops from local ingredients since 1924, so you know they’ve got their recipes down pat. Keep an eye out for lavender-flavored scoops made in collaboration with SeaLyon Farm.
While this region might epitomize New England charm, there’s more to browse and buy than run-of-the-mill Maine souvenirs. Wildings on Main Street is a plant and lifestyle boutique where you can pick up chic, minimalist items to light up your living space. Farther down the street, inside the brick Masonic Block building, The Kingfisher & The Queen features an eclectic mix of high-quality vintage finds, new housewares, artisanal pottery and European toys. At the heart of the commercial downtown, you’ll find two outposts of Maine’s department store: the inimitable Renys. Damariscotta boasts two of Renys’ 17 statewide stores: the smaller Main Store, which carries clothing, and just down and across the street, Renys Underground, an expansive two-level space filled with the eclectic mix of rugged Maine-ready footwear, home goods, and foodstuffs that make this chain a beloved local staple. Pick up Carhartt overalls, an Adirondack chair, or whatever you need to start your own Maine adventure.
Rising Tide Co-op
Beyond the curve of Main Street, Rising Tide Co-op is hard to miss with its teal siding and marquee sign that lights up at night. A Midcoast mecca carrying local, organic and specialty groceries, wellness items and gifts, the store has been cooperatively owned since 1978. Over the years, it has cultivated a large membership and a loyal following thanks to its reputation as a community resource and a destination for exceptional produce and all-natural, sustainable foods, including a mouth-watering selection of Maine cheeses.
While spontaneity is a magical mindset for your summer adventure, there are a couple of instances when it pays to plan ahead. Securing a table at River House is one of them. Perched atop pilings above the Damariscotta River, the farm-driven restaurant is a masterclass in conscious cuisine, sourcing exclusively from local farms and fishermen—even generating all its power from solar and wood-fired sources. Chef Jon Merry conjures up deliciously elegant yet simple dishes from the fresh ingredients his neighboring farmers provide. As a result, locals and tourists alike clamor for a table throughout the summer.
To secure a sweet place to lay your head at night, make your second reservation at Wanderwood. The venue hosts weddings, workshops, and concerts against the backdrop of an idyllic organic farm. Despite its rustic setting, the handful of rooms in the 1920s farmhouse are a study in refined luxury. There’s more to do than just get a good night’s sleep, too. “Guests are invited to walk the woods trails on our 100-acre property, borrow a kayak to explore Pemaquid Pond and stock their fridge with freshly harvested organic produce straight from the field,” says Kelsey, who owns and runs the farm and events venue with her partner, Matt. “We always stock the farmhouse with fresh blooms and a sampling of whatever is freshest off the farm.” Late-summer guests are treated to a bounty of heirloom tomatoes. “They’re a big, juicy hit,” says Kelsey.
These, and a bounty of other Maine treasures awaits you. So eat, drink, and be merry as you explore the heart of the Midcoast.
Wanderwood. Photo: Katie Arnold Photography
Off the Beaten Path: read more from this series
Enjoy a whistle-stop tour of this tried-and-true summer destination on Maine’s Midcoast.