Summer in the mountains: Rangeley & Oquossoc
Panoramic view of the landscape in the Rangeley Lakes region. Photo: Mark Stephens Photography
By Saisie Moore
NEAR THE CORNER OF MAINE’S BOUNDARY with New Hampshire and Canada, nestled between six sparkling major lakes to the west and spires of 4,000-foot mountains to its north and east, the small town of Rangeley has an outsized cachet. The European settlers didn’t establish themselves in this area until around 1825, but once word of the trophy brook trout and landlocked salmon to be had reached East Coast cities, Rangeley quickly became one of New England’s premier destinations for outdoor recreation. And it still enjoys that reputation today throughout all four seasons. Snowmobile trails, ski mountains and sections of the Appalachian Trail wind among the miles of conifers and dozens of clear, cold ponds and lakes that also form Maine’s Western mountains region. Amidst all this natural splendor, you’ll also discover bountiful opportunities for dining, drinking and doing.
From the southern approach, Rangeley Lakes Scenic Byway fulfills the promise of its name–and then some. Situated on a curve in the road, the Height of Land rest stop is a front-row seat to a sweeping panorama. Spread out below are the vast waters of Mooselookmeguntic Lake, Maine’s fourth-largest lake, with Toothaker Island at its southern reach. A satisfying mouthful of a name, Mooselookmeguntic is the Abenaki word for “moose feeding place,” and you’ll have a good chance of spotting wildlife if you venture onto the trails and into the forests that stretch to the horizon.
The last leg of your journey skirts the shore of the deep, cool Rangeley Lake to end on the long stretch of Main Street. You’ll have to pace yourself to enjoy all the delicious eateries here, but since you’re on vacation, you can always start with ice cream. Pine Tree Frosty is a summer staple set on the banks of Haley Pond and bedecked with pink petunias. The menu offers generous scoops of Gifford’s ice cream and traditional lunch fare like lobster rolls, fried clams and burgers. This is the meal you dreamed of during the depths of winter.
Photo courtesy of Classic Provisions.
Next door you’ll find Classic Provisions, a joint venture of husband-and-wife team Payson and Joanna Farrar. Professionally trained at culinary school, the duo has packed their small and selective market with fine foods, wines, and an array of fresh house-made treats. “It’s a collaborative menu,” says Joanna. “I bake each morning and we prepare almost everything in-house.” Payson recently joined his wife following a celebrated tenure at Loon Lodge Inn and Forks in the Air Bistro (closed 2020) and is considered one of the finest chefs in town. Expect a fine array of specialty breakfast and lunch sandwiches and mouth-watering pastries. “We’re expanding our seating area and menu in time for summer,” says Joanna. While reluctant to pick favorites, she reports that “our house-made cinnamon buns are always extremely popular.” One bite is all it takes to understand why. The caffeine-dependent should make a beeline to Inner Eye on Main Street, one of the only true coffee shops in town. And the former pharmacy has had a playful redesign and now functions as a gallery space for local artists.
It’s time to work off that post-lunch slump. Luckily, you’re in the heart of Maine’s outdoor recreation mecca, where visitors have flocked to enjoy every season for over 150 years. Overlooking Rangeley is the recently reopened Saddleback Mountain, a destination for skiers in the winter and a natural paradise during the warmer seasons. Saddleback Adventures offers SUP yoga, paddling, mountain biking and hiking adventures in the surrounding wilderness. Day-trippers can trek from Saddleback Ski Lodge up the mountain, joining a section of the Appalachian Trail for a tough climb to the summit. Most of the trail is above the treeline, offering uninterrupted views for miles. Replenish those spent calories back at the lodge with a trip to The Pub, where the staggering views across the Western mountains and hearty gastropub food can revive even the weariest hiker.
At the base of Saddleback, Rangeley Lakes Trails Center opens the door to over 50 kilometers of trails that thread through Northern boreal forest. “It’s unusual to see other people because the trail system is so vast,” says director Beth Flynn. That doesn’t mean you’re alone. “Look out for moose, deer, bobcat, Canadian lynx, fox and rabbits, to name a few,” as well as a wealth of bird species. “Take the Lake Trail Loop for sweeping views of Saddleback Lake and the Saddleback range,” Flynn recommends. “For a fun family jaunt, try the Gnome Home Roam.”
Unwind after your adventures at historic Loon Lodge Inn for a taste of Rangeley’s Rusticator Era. Beautifully restored to its original 1909 glory (with modern amenities included), Loon Lodge Inn is set on five acres of Rangeley Lake’s stunning shoreline. The lodge has eight guest rooms featuring antique furniture and quaintly nostalgic décor, a petite pub, and a book-lined dining room. Enjoy sundowner drinks from your waterfront Adirondack chair as you watch the sun melt into the horizon from the lake’s eastern shore.
Books line the walls of the dining room at Loon Lodge Inn. Courtesy photo.
Down the road, and closer to town you’ll find the Rangeley Inn, a historic grand hotel also built in the early 1900’s. Offering a full bar and elevated pub food, the tavern makes a great après-adventure destination year-round. Cooler season guests can even enjoy fireside dining. Stay at the Inn, or their nearby waterfront Haley Pond Lodge and you’ll be within walking distance of downtown Rangeley’s many restaurants, shops and waterfront parks including Rangeley Lake and Haley Pond.
Families flock to Furbish Brew House & Eats on Main Street, where there’s ample space on the wraparound porch to indulge in owner/brewer Chip Smith’s beers and wood-fired pizzas. The party continues at Moose Alley, with ten sleek bowling lanes, nine pool tables, an arcade area, several bars, a stage and a dance floor, where hand-painted salmon and brook trout swirl under rhythmic feet.
In July and August, the nonprofit Rangeley Friends of the Arts fills Rangeley’s community calendar with arts that include music, dance, and theater performances, like the free outdoor live music concert series each Monday evening at the Haley Pond gazebo. Settle beside the water and listen to the Sandy River Ramblers strum play their tunes, or stop by Lakeside Theater for the weekly Indie Film Series.
Early risers in Rangeley may be rewarded with a glimpse of loons on the lake or a herd of wandering deer. Once your appetite has awakened, take a short drive to The Farmer’s Daughter farmstand and market in the neighboring town of Oquossoc. Housed in a sage-green barn and flanked by greenhouses, the seasonal market offers organic produce and a bounty of fresh-baked breakfast goodies. Here you’ll find all the fixings for the perfect summer picnic, beer and wine included. A grassy expanse dotted with picnic tables is the perfect spot to soak up the morning sun. Feed your curiosity next at Books, Lines & Thinkers in downtown Rangeley. Nearby, Ecopelagicon stocks adventure books, regional guides, and ordinance maps to inspire your next adventures, as well as a plethora of outdoor gear and canoe and kayak rentals outside the store. Keep an eye out for the friendly store cat.
A group enjoys a peaceful paddle on Haley Pond in Rangeley. Photo courtesy of Saddleback Mountain.
For a slice of intrigue, head to the hills just outside of town for the Wilhelm Reich Museum, the famed laboratory of the unconventional psychoanalyst. A pupil of Freud, Reich is known for pursuing increasingly experimental research in the mid-20th century. The Rangeley lab houses “cloudbuster” devices, which Reich used to study his theories on the supposed element he named “orgone.” On August 2, Lakeside Theater will screen “Love, Work and Knowledge,” examining the scientist’s life and persecution. The topic is sure to spark conversation, and the Bald Mountain Camps lodge, complete with a screened-in porch and rocking chairs, might just be the perfect place to unwind and discuss it over a build-your-own Bloody Mary. The family-owned camp is perched on the edge of Mooselookmeguntic Lake and comprises cozy 1800s post and beam cabins, with Bald Mountain’s trailhead just a short walk away. A hike up a steep slope will take you to a fire tower, where you’re rewarded with a 360-degree view across the mountains. It’s worth every step.
End your day in the sleek surroundings of Portage Tap House in Oquossoc, where the tap list reads like a highlight reel of Maine’s best beers. The menu features elevated pub fare, most notably rustic pizza cooked before your eyes in the vast domed wood-fired oven. All that fresh air and delicious food is sure to leave you with that unbeatable vacation glow of a day well spent.
A short drive to Langtown Mill will bring you to Bigelow Fields, where husband-and-wife team Michael and Nichole Weaver tends and breeds 50 buffalo, bringing a taste of Western ranching to the Maine mountains. Fresh bison meat and naturally leavened sourdough bread are available from The Hutch farm store each week. Although bison aren’t native to Maine, the couple developed an affinity for the animals while out West and began dreaming of bringing the benefits of bison meat to Nichole’s home state. “It’s a very lean, healthy meat,” says Nichole. “Our herd is raised freely on pastureland. We encourage you to come and see the herd but to respect the fence line. Bison are undomesticated creatures, and we want to honor their wild nature.”
Farther south, another family is raising an unusual herd. Alpacaville welcomes visitors from Memorial Day through Labor Day to enjoy Maine-made ice cream as they overlook Saddleback Mountain and a resident herd of seven alpacas, a peacock, and three emus (which owner Jeff Seaberg calls his “little raptors”). Visitors are welcome to interact with the animals, and you may even find Jeff introducing a cria—a baby alpaca—to guests. The fiber is brought to a cooperative in Massachusetts, where it is transformed into clothing that you can buy in the Alpacaville shop, along with Jeff’s paintings of the curious creatures.
The Western mountains beckon many visitors, eager to get a dose of peace and outdoor adventure, in a place where the the rolling landscape allows for escape among endless acres of boreal forest and quiet waterways. And when you’re ready to leave solitude behind, you’ll discover a thriving mountain community that has enriched the area with creativity, fine dining, culture, and stewardship of its history and natural splendor.
Gallery:
Height of the Land overlooking Mooselookmeguntic Lake.
Female Eastern Moose in a wooded pasture in Rangeley. Photo: Mark Stephens Photography.
Two mountain bikers take to the downhill single-track bike trails at Saddleback Mountain. Courtesy photo.
Aerial view of Town Cove on Rangeley Lake with Spotted and East Kennebago Mountains visible in the background. Photo: Kyle Haley Photography.
Lupine on Saddleback Mountain. Courtesy photo.
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