Off the beaten path: Skowhegan
By Heather Chandler and Jasmine Haines
Getting off the beaten path requires a spirit of adventure and a desire to discover your own true experience of a place. In this new series, we profile our favorite places to get off-the-beaten-path in Maine. These articles are meant to be an introduction, and not at all comprehensive. There are just so many sweet spots to explore, we couldn’t possibly include them all in this inaugural section. Consider this a jumping off point to fuel your own sense of adventure, with a few guideposts along the way. One great resource to find out what’s happening in Maine’s downtowns is the Main Street Maine program, a compilation of local life in Maine’s nationally recognized historic downtowns. Learn more at mainstreetmaine.org.
Part of the Langlais Art Trail, this dreamy mermaid is one of 21 sculptures in Skowhegan made of scrap wood and other salvaged materials by Maine artist Bernard (“Blackie”) Langlais. The art trail spans all over the state.
Skowhegan
On the panoramic banks of the Kennebec River, in the south-central region of the state, sits a community with a rich agricultural history. Skowhegan – named after the Abenaki tribal word for “place to watch for” (fish) – was originally home to the Abenaki, who were drawn to the area by the abundance of salmon and other species.
Once one of Maine’s great mill towns, Skowhegan has been making a name for itself in recent years as an agritourism and outdoor recreation destination with a deep connection to its roots.
Skowhegan has always celebrated the bounty of its farms and the industriousness and ingenuity of its people. Their annual state fair was first held in 1818, making it the oldest consecutively running agricultural fair in the nation. This was well before the large paper and textile mills came to town, back when Skowhegan and the surrounding area were known as the “breadbasket of Maine” for the abundance of wheat that was produced and processed here. In 1837 alone, Skowhegan produced 239,000 bushels of grain.
Large-scale manufacturing eventually came – and went, for the most part, much as it did for so many other towns throughout New England (although New Balance shoes are still made in town). But, like many other former mill towns, Skowhegan is reinventing itself these days, with a resurgence of businesses that display a deep appreciation for the town’s agricultural heritage.
Amber Lambke gives a tour of the Maine Grains gristmill.
Leading this effort in many respects is Maine Grains, a wheat farming and grinding collaborative founded in 2012 that seeks to bring grain production back to Maine as a model of a sustainable agribusiness. Maine Grains operates a gristmill in the former Somerset County Jail, a handsome brick building in downtown Skowhegan (several free tours are offered throughout the year). Here, they use a traditional stone-milling process to preserve the nutritional content of their flour and improve its performance. The proof is in the pudding, as it were: you can sample delicious desserts, slab sandwiches, pizza, pasta, and more made with Maine Grains flour at The Miller’s Table, which operates out of the back of the gristmill. Don’t forget to visit the attached Maine Grains store to buy a sack or two of flour for your own pantry.
But this is no one-bakery town. At The Bankery, you can find a rich treasure trove for your taste buds inside a cozy and charming location. The 1864 bank building is now converted into an artisanal bakery, complete with repurposed vaults made into walk-in refrigerators and original safety deposit boxes on display. Everything is made from scratch, with the dairy products sourced from local producers like Balfour Farms and Crooked Face Creamery and the grains coming from – where else? – Maine Grains, just up the road.
A favorite spot for locals, the Kel-Mat Café is only open for lunch, so stop in midday for homemade soups and hearty sandwiches (big enough to share) and a wide variety of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. Make yourself at home in the welcoming indoor dining space or grab a picnic table outside for al fresco dining.
Where there’s bread, there’s usually beer, so your Skowhegan experience should also include a tour of one (or both) of the local breweries. Oak Pond Brewing has been around since 1996, and it was the first new brewery to open in Skowhegan in 115 years. It is popular among lager and ale fans due to its classic, old-world styles that are brewed with well water. Tours are offered during regular business hours, Tuesday through Friday 3 to 5:30 p.m. and Saturday 12:30 to 5:30 p.m.
Enjoy tasty brews and live music at Bigelow Brewing Company.
Continue your evening at the tasting room at Bigelow Brewing Company, which offers live music and wood-fired pizza on Friday from 3 to 8 pm and Saturday noon to 8 pm. Enjoy local acts like Davidson County Line and Matt and the Barn Burners while tossing back a Dementia Dog IPA or a Jailbreak Chocolate Chili stout. Check bigelowbrewing.com for a complete schedule of performances.
Don’t have time to visit both breweries? Stop into the Old Mill Pub, a former grain mill turned full-service restaurant on Water Street, in a scenic spot on the banks of the Kennebec River. Order an on-tap option from either – or both! – breweries or enjoy any number of other local favorites while taking in the gorgeous deck views.
Folks in Skowhegan also know how to have some old-school fun. Since 1954 the Skowhegan Drive-In has been a favorite spot to grab a double feature on the weekend. One of only 330 drive-in movie theaters left in the United States, this blast from the past is open rain or shine throughout the summer. There is also The Strand theater downtown, an original 1929 multiplex, now fully restored, with historic balconies intact. The theater is said to be haunted, so prepare yourself for thrills on multiple levels.
If live performances are more your style, up the road in Madison you’ll find one of America’s oldest and most famous stage companies. Operating since 1901, Lakewood Theater and Restaurant has drawn some big names, from Mama Cass to Humphrey Bogart. Located on the picturesque Lake Wesserunsett, Lakewood also serves brunch, lunch and dinner, making for a perfect excursion. Shows run through September.
Don’t worry about a long drive back to your accommodations after a late show – stay overnight next door at Colony House Inn, a quaint 1929 shingle-style inn with five guest rooms. Situated on the western shores of the lake, it’s an ideal spot to spend a weekend reading books on the screened-in porch or playing golf on the nearby Lakewood Golf Course.
If it’s history you hunger for, be sure to schedule a visit to the Skowhegan History House Museum & Research Center. Built in 1839, this Greek Revival brick cottage harkens back to a pre-industrial Skowhegan and is known for its heirloom gardens. The research center is a repository for historical documents including journals, newspapers and family records from the area’s first settlers, dating back to 1772, and materials relating to Benedict Arnold’s ill-fated expedition from Massachusetts to Quebec.
Experience an entirely different chapter of US history at the Margaret Chase Smith Library and Museum, located on fifteen picturesque acres overlooking the banks of the Kennebec River. Senator Smith, the first woman to be elected to both houses of Congress, is best remembered today for her renowned “Declaration of Conscience” speech of 1950, in which she became the first member of the Senate to speak out against her fellow Senator McCarthy’s anticommunist crusade. Visitors today can tour parts of Smith’s home and see exhibits on her family life and Congressional career; the library is also open to all.
Art adorns the outside of a gallery on Water Street
Art fans may also want to make a pilgrimage to the Skowhegan School of Painting and Sculpture, which is technically located in Madison. Founded by artists in 1947, the Skowhegan school has been an art powerhouse for more than 70 years, with alumni and faculty that include Berenice Abbott, Robert Indiana, Alex Katz, William Pope.L and many others. The school hosts unique events and exhibits throughout the year.
You’ll find more art, culture, fun and outdoor exploration with a self-guided tour of Skowhegan’s piece of the Langlais Art Trail, a statewide initiative. In 2010, larger-than-life sculptures made from scrap wood and other salvaged materials by Maine artist Bernard (“Blackie”) Langlais were placed all over the state – though of course, Skowhegan was already known for its 62-foot-high Skowhegan Indian, which Langlais dedicated to “the Maine Indians, the first people to use these lands in peaceful ways.” Now joining this iconic statue in Skowhegan are 21 additional Langlais artworks, including a dreamy mermaid in the Riverfront parking lot; a ragtag group of footballers on the lawn of the Skowhegan Community Center; and a panther on the prowl at the Skowhegan Free Public Library.
Keep up the outdoor strolling at the Debe River Walk Trail, an ADA-accessible trail that runs along the river on the south side of the gorge, a popular spot for angling and rafting. For the somewhat less adventurous, picnic tables and paved paths make this trail perfect for a family outing. Connect to the nearby Philbrick Trails by crossing Joyce Street at the end of the river walk.
Save the date!
Skowhegan Craft Brew Fest
Late August / Early September
If you love summer in Maine and the craft brew scene, the Skowhegan Craft Brew Fest was made for you. This festival is best enjoyed with friends, and designated drivers can purchase tickets for only $10. General admission is $40 advance / $45 at the door, with a limited number of VIP tickets offering early admission and specialty brews for $60 ($15 for VIP designated drivers).
Off the beaten path: read more from this series
Winding roads, rivers and coves lead to picture-perfect seascapes and classic New England small towns in Maine’s Mid-Midcoast